So I completely forgot to write about the cave in Trinidad.
On our final night most of the group went up the hill to a club which is inside a cave. We got up there fairly early around opening time, but as is typical they were on Cuban time so we hung around for 3/4 of an hour before they let anyone in. It was quite an experience, you go down in a series of caverns with the music gaining in volume in each of the caverns until you get to the main area with the DJ booth carved out of the rock wall above the dancefloor. Very good location for a venue.
We hung out for a while and then decided it was time to head back so we head on out and the first person we see is a "taxi" so we being 7 (a couple on laps/floor) of us jump in his old 40´s chev with suicide doors and head on down the hill music blarring from the tinny radio, all the while I´m hoping the brakes can stop us at the end of the winding dirt road. We got there in the end with no problems and finally got our ride in a classic cuban ride (albeit no where near the best kept car in town).
So far Trinidad has definitely been the highlight of the trip, beautiful casa, sailing, seeing the wildlife and the city itself. It´s a bit more laidback than Havana, the architecture in the old part of town is welcoming and there´s plenty of music on tap as well.
Friday, February 29, 2008
Thoughts On Cuba So Far
Doing a tour was a good idea, our group leader is good to have around to help organise activities, translate, provide knowledge and just make sure we're getting the most out of the experience as possible. She was initially a bit concerned I'd get enough food with me being vegetarian, but she's been very helpful with organising some good meals out. Highly recommended to do a tour in these countries, particularly if you don't speak the language very well. I think if you have a good command of the language then it wouldn't be so much of a problem. It does also open up opportunities to do activities you wouldn't be able to if you were travelling by yourself.
I think the tour group has a good make up and we all get on really well. The ANZACS intially gave Kevin the englishman plenty of stick but now it seems to have evened itself out. Having plenty of fun hanging out together and both Nicola and I are out doing things we'd not necessarily be doing had we been by ourselves. It certainly seems better than some of the tour groups we've seen around the place, full of people not really getting social with each other and seemingly not having fun. Having said all that, we've still got plenty of space if we want to do our own thing, so not forced to follow the group everywhere.
Have been frustrated along the trip with communication. Particularly early on with the staff on the desk at the hotel in Havana where they would say yes or si all the time when you are asking questions but not actually be understanding you, and at the end of the conversation they'd just stand there and do nothing! This is better now, partially having a couple people in the group who speak a bit more of the language than us. Before you come here, learn as much espanol as possible. We're getting there slowly.
The people in Cuba are for the most part very friendly and helpful, even if you don't speak espanol. We'll get plenty of smiles and response walking down the street if we offer an hola or buenas dias. I find the people on the street and in the casas generally more helpful than the people in the internet cafes and some of the hotel staff, where you can get very frustrated if you don't speak the language.
I think the tour group has a good make up and we all get on really well. The ANZACS intially gave Kevin the englishman plenty of stick but now it seems to have evened itself out. Having plenty of fun hanging out together and both Nicola and I are out doing things we'd not necessarily be doing had we been by ourselves. It certainly seems better than some of the tour groups we've seen around the place, full of people not really getting social with each other and seemingly not having fun. Having said all that, we've still got plenty of space if we want to do our own thing, so not forced to follow the group everywhere.
Have been frustrated along the trip with communication. Particularly early on with the staff on the desk at the hotel in Havana where they would say yes or si all the time when you are asking questions but not actually be understanding you, and at the end of the conversation they'd just stand there and do nothing! This is better now, partially having a couple people in the group who speak a bit more of the language than us. Before you come here, learn as much espanol as possible. We're getting there slowly.
The people in Cuba are for the most part very friendly and helpful, even if you don't speak espanol. We'll get plenty of smiles and response walking down the street if we offer an hola or buenas dias. I find the people on the street and in the casas generally more helpful than the people in the internet cafes and some of the hotel staff, where you can get very frustrated if you don't speak the language.
Trinidad - Music and Sailing on the Caribbean
Trinidad was our first experience of casa particulares (private houses). These are basically homestays and have some of the best accomodation and food available in the country. Ours is one of the better in Trinidad so we were very fortunate. The house has a private courtyard, rooftop terrace and is very tidy.
One of the things we were warned about but not prepared for was the meals at our casa. You´re expected to dine with the casa if you stay in them and you are brought out more food than you could possibly handle and left to it. When you´re finished you feel very guilty about having left so much on the table especially considering what the locals have to go without.
While our host didn´t speak much english we managed to muddle our way through.
The first full day in Trinidad and Nicola was not feeling well so I spent it in Trinidad wandering around with some of the group taking in some of the sights, galleries and markets. And turned downed countless offers of cigars on the street. We seem to be getting hassled a lot more here. Got a hat and shirt and now I´ve been labeled the one turning Cuban. We´ll see about that.
Also spent some time wandering round by myself, caught a local musician across the street from our casa. The place seems to be a major tourist bus stop off, as every 15 minutes a different group seemed to appear.
With Nicola not well enough to go out I headed out with the group. We went to a couple of local spots, one playing for a younger crowd with lots of cubans picking up overseas dance partners and the other a little more laid back, still plenty of dancing just a little more low key with a slightly older crowd and where one of the local "celebrity" couples danced for the audience and showing they still got what it takes.
The next day with Nicola feeling better (in part thanks to our casa´s homemade mint tea) and bouyed by thoughts of sailing on the caribbean we headed off on our sailing and snorkeling trip.
The boat ride was great, a couple hours on the deck in the sun chilling out and rapidly getting through my one and only book. Will need to do some more sailing in the future. We stopped off before we got to the island for some snorkelling which was below average and Nicola had a scuffle with the coral and came off second best.
Got to the island for some lunch and to meeting the local population of iguanas and jutías (tree rats). I´m bringing some jutías home to train up. Both of the locals are onto the deal and before we got off the boat they were waiting with even more appearing as lunch was served.
During lunch, much fun was had with the locals running under the tables and over feet. The jutías would come up and balance on back legs and sniff around for some tasty morsels. I was very surprised how friendly and comfortable they were around us.
Hermit crab racing was cut short before the first race when the skipper decided it was time to head back.
All up was a very good way to spend the day.
The next day we said goodbye to our hosts and were back on the bus headed for Camagúey. We both really didn´t want to leave Trinidad as the casa and our hosts were so nice. We need to ship them over to NZ, they can help train the jutías.
One of the things we were warned about but not prepared for was the meals at our casa. You´re expected to dine with the casa if you stay in them and you are brought out more food than you could possibly handle and left to it. When you´re finished you feel very guilty about having left so much on the table especially considering what the locals have to go without.
While our host didn´t speak much english we managed to muddle our way through.
The first full day in Trinidad and Nicola was not feeling well so I spent it in Trinidad wandering around with some of the group taking in some of the sights, galleries and markets. And turned downed countless offers of cigars on the street. We seem to be getting hassled a lot more here. Got a hat and shirt and now I´ve been labeled the one turning Cuban. We´ll see about that.
Also spent some time wandering round by myself, caught a local musician across the street from our casa. The place seems to be a major tourist bus stop off, as every 15 minutes a different group seemed to appear.
With Nicola not well enough to go out I headed out with the group. We went to a couple of local spots, one playing for a younger crowd with lots of cubans picking up overseas dance partners and the other a little more laid back, still plenty of dancing just a little more low key with a slightly older crowd and where one of the local "celebrity" couples danced for the audience and showing they still got what it takes.
The next day with Nicola feeling better (in part thanks to our casa´s homemade mint tea) and bouyed by thoughts of sailing on the caribbean we headed off on our sailing and snorkeling trip.
The boat ride was great, a couple hours on the deck in the sun chilling out and rapidly getting through my one and only book. Will need to do some more sailing in the future. We stopped off before we got to the island for some snorkelling which was below average and Nicola had a scuffle with the coral and came off second best.
Got to the island for some lunch and to meeting the local population of iguanas and jutías (tree rats). I´m bringing some jutías home to train up. Both of the locals are onto the deal and before we got off the boat they were waiting with even more appearing as lunch was served.
During lunch, much fun was had with the locals running under the tables and over feet. The jutías would come up and balance on back legs and sniff around for some tasty morsels. I was very surprised how friendly and comfortable they were around us.
Hermit crab racing was cut short before the first race when the skipper decided it was time to head back.
All up was a very good way to spend the day.
The next day we said goodbye to our hosts and were back on the bus headed for Camagúey. We both really didn´t want to leave Trinidad as the casa and our hosts were so nice. We need to ship them over to NZ, they can help train the jutías.
Onto Trinidad
We left Girón for Trinidad, stopping at the Che museum which was very interesting, there´s plenty of photos and some impressive monuments to the local hero. We had a local guide for the whole bus ride, so he told us about some of the issues facing Cuba today and answered any of our questions. It was very good to have insight from a local.
Some of the issues he highlighted included the dual currency, lack of support for local enterprise and Fidel not doing much for the last 10 years. I get the feeling they would continue to resist some of the pressure from the US, especially with latin american ties growing stronger with various trade alliances in place. Seems like a lot of latin american countries feel they can be better off supporting each other rather than be bullied by the US.
We also stopped off at Santa Clara, which was the site of the decisive battle of the revolution. Che and commrades used a bulldozer to derail the train and stop supplies and soldiers on their way to Santiago. Batista realized defeat was imminent so he fled the country and Fidel gained power.
Some of the issues he highlighted included the dual currency, lack of support for local enterprise and Fidel not doing much for the last 10 years. I get the feeling they would continue to resist some of the pressure from the US, especially with latin american ties growing stronger with various trade alliances in place. Seems like a lot of latin american countries feel they can be better off supporting each other rather than be bullied by the US.
We also stopped off at Santa Clara, which was the site of the decisive battle of the revolution. Che and commrades used a bulldozer to derail the train and stop supplies and soldiers on their way to Santiago. Batista realized defeat was imminent so he fled the country and Fidel gained power.
Thursday, February 28, 2008
More beach
We headed off to Playa Giron.
We stopped at the old Australia sugar mill which was used by Fidel as the command post during the failed Bay Of Pigs invasion of 1961, when cuban exciles backed by the US tried to overthrow Fidel. There's a museum there now with lots of information, equipment, pictures and some maps used during the invasion. They've also got the original desks and phones used by Fidel. It was good to finally get close to some of the history I've been reading about.
We also had a short train ride to some sugar cane fields and sampled some of the good stuff. They talked a little about the industry, mentioning that in 2002 Fidel shut down around 1/2 the mills in Cuba as they were no longer economically viable.
Well worth the stop.
Also passed by Elian Gonzalez's house. He was in the news around 1999-2000 after being found by the US Coastguard floating in a tire tube after his mother had drowned. Big custody dispute between his father in Cuba and his other family in Miami. At the time this was more political than anything between the Miami Cubans and the Cuban government. The immigration officials raided his home and he was sent back to Cuba.
Onto a crocodile farm where they're repopulating the Cuban species. And finally Hotel Giron for a couple days in a resort style facility. Felt like a holiday camp from hell and not really worth spending 2 days there (one of which I was sick).
We mostly spent our time lounging in the sun, pool volleyball, more lounging in the sun, walking to/from our cabins (5+ mins each way) and the others took adavantage of the free drinks. Nicola tried out the snorkelling down the road but was disappointed as we had better in Vanuatu so I didn't miss much being sick that day. Miriam from our group won the Miss Giron contest. We had some more Salsa lessons (Kevin and I did our best to frustrate the teacher with our lack of skills).
Onto Trinidad.
We stopped at the old Australia sugar mill which was used by Fidel as the command post during the failed Bay Of Pigs invasion of 1961, when cuban exciles backed by the US tried to overthrow Fidel. There's a museum there now with lots of information, equipment, pictures and some maps used during the invasion. They've also got the original desks and phones used by Fidel. It was good to finally get close to some of the history I've been reading about.
We also had a short train ride to some sugar cane fields and sampled some of the good stuff. They talked a little about the industry, mentioning that in 2002 Fidel shut down around 1/2 the mills in Cuba as they were no longer economically viable.
Well worth the stop.
Also passed by Elian Gonzalez's house. He was in the news around 1999-2000 after being found by the US Coastguard floating in a tire tube after his mother had drowned. Big custody dispute between his father in Cuba and his other family in Miami. At the time this was more political than anything between the Miami Cubans and the Cuban government. The immigration officials raided his home and he was sent back to Cuba.
Onto a crocodile farm where they're repopulating the Cuban species. And finally Hotel Giron for a couple days in a resort style facility. Felt like a holiday camp from hell and not really worth spending 2 days there (one of which I was sick).
We mostly spent our time lounging in the sun, pool volleyball, more lounging in the sun, walking to/from our cabins (5+ mins each way) and the others took adavantage of the free drinks. Nicola tried out the snorkelling down the road but was disappointed as we had better in Vanuatu so I didn't miss much being sick that day. Miriam from our group won the Miss Giron contest. We had some more Salsa lessons (Kevin and I did our best to frustrate the teacher with our lack of skills).
Onto Trinidad.
Monday, February 25, 2008
On the beach in Varadero
Headed out first thing (after we´d waited for one of the girls to get her card from the bank where she left it in the machine!!!). We travelled to Varadero which is one of the nicer beach areas and hence has loads of tourists and all inclusive resorts. On our way we stopped at some caves and had a tour (nothing on Waitomo!). Saw plenty of billboards along the way to remind us of the revolution and other interesting sights such as the organised hitchhiking / car pooling and a bit of the countryside.
Arrived in the afternoon with plenty of time to get some beach in which we did. First swim of the summer and it was all good.
Salsa lesson before dinner, Nicola missed it and I suck :)
The next day was much the same beach, lunch at an italian restaurant where garlic bread is toast with oil and a tiny amount of garlic on it, dinner at a seafood place which the tour leader organised me a special meal and the chef came out twice and checked it was ok which it was.
Found out that Fidel had announced he would be standing down and someone else would be voted in on the 24th when the general assembly meets. Very big news and all of the tv channels both local, latin and international. Plenty of speculation what´s going to happen, though fairly likely Raul will be the man on the spot.
Best price $0.70 convertible pesos for water (grande 1.5l), which Tracy managed. One of the quirks of Cuba is the pricing fluctuates somewhat between locals, tourists, time of the day, alignment of stars or just plain dumb luck. You can always bargain or head around the corner for a better deal (well if there is more than one shop). It´s not dependant on having a monopoly as some of the towns we´ve been to there´s been one shop and it´s been priced reasonably!
Arrived in the afternoon with plenty of time to get some beach in which we did. First swim of the summer and it was all good.
Salsa lesson before dinner, Nicola missed it and I suck :)
The next day was much the same beach, lunch at an italian restaurant where garlic bread is toast with oil and a tiny amount of garlic on it, dinner at a seafood place which the tour leader organised me a special meal and the chef came out twice and checked it was ok which it was.
Found out that Fidel had announced he would be standing down and someone else would be voted in on the 24th when the general assembly meets. Very big news and all of the tv channels both local, latin and international. Plenty of speculation what´s going to happen, though fairly likely Raul will be the man on the spot.
Best price $0.70 convertible pesos for water (grande 1.5l), which Tracy managed. One of the quirks of Cuba is the pricing fluctuates somewhat between locals, tourists, time of the day, alignment of stars or just plain dumb luck. You can always bargain or head around the corner for a better deal (well if there is more than one shop). It´s not dependant on having a monopoly as some of the towns we´ve been to there´s been one shop and it´s been priced reasonably!
First Day in Havana
Woke up this morning still a little shell shocked but sorted ourselves out with a shower and got ready to face the day.
Met up with the tour leader who told us the time the whole group would be meeting up, which gave us most of the day to have a look around and see if we´d made the right decision coming to Cuba.
Headed out in a random direction and ended up on one of the main streets with a nice big walkway down the middle. With our spirits picking up we headed toward the sea to give us a better understanding of where we were and what the neighbourhood was like. At the end of the parade there´s a sea wall with a large sidewalk next to it so we ended up walking along till we got hungry and grabbed some food at a cafe/diner, we didn´t really enjoy it much as we were still wary of the food and what we should be avoiding eating.
Still, things were looking much better in the daylight.
We ventured further along and stopped at a monument consisting of 138 black flags with white stars on them which is visible from the other end of the seawall where we started off. This was erected in response to electronic messages being displayed by the US mission, some of which were about human rights abuses. Fidel tore down the parking building infront of the mission without anyone knowing what was being built until he unveiled it. The flags symbolise the people who have died as the result of violent acts against Cuba since its 1959 revolution - more than 3,400 of them.
Headed back to the hotel and met up with our tour group - 4 aussies, 1 aussie, 1 aussie, 1 englishman and us the only couple on the tour. Went over some general bits and pieces, introduced ourselves and arranged to meet later for dinner.
Out for dinner in Old Havana, wish we´d looked around there during the day but plenty of time after the tour finishes. The group seemed like it´d be a good group and we´d have plenty of fun on tour with them.
By the end of our first day we felt things were picking up and looked forward to the tour. Having a tour leader to lean on a bit gave us some comfort. Also just having that time to have a wonder around and get used to a completey new environment.
Met up with the tour leader who told us the time the whole group would be meeting up, which gave us most of the day to have a look around and see if we´d made the right decision coming to Cuba.
Headed out in a random direction and ended up on one of the main streets with a nice big walkway down the middle. With our spirits picking up we headed toward the sea to give us a better understanding of where we were and what the neighbourhood was like. At the end of the parade there´s a sea wall with a large sidewalk next to it so we ended up walking along till we got hungry and grabbed some food at a cafe/diner, we didn´t really enjoy it much as we were still wary of the food and what we should be avoiding eating.
Still, things were looking much better in the daylight.
We ventured further along and stopped at a monument consisting of 138 black flags with white stars on them which is visible from the other end of the seawall where we started off. This was erected in response to electronic messages being displayed by the US mission, some of which were about human rights abuses. Fidel tore down the parking building infront of the mission without anyone knowing what was being built until he unveiled it. The flags symbolise the people who have died as the result of violent acts against Cuba since its 1959 revolution - more than 3,400 of them.
Headed back to the hotel and met up with our tour group - 4 aussies, 1 aussie, 1 aussie, 1 englishman and us the only couple on the tour. Went over some general bits and pieces, introduced ourselves and arranged to meet later for dinner.
Out for dinner in Old Havana, wish we´d looked around there during the day but plenty of time after the tour finishes. The group seemed like it´d be a good group and we´d have plenty of fun on tour with them.
By the end of our first day we felt things were picking up and looked forward to the tour. Having a tour leader to lean on a bit gave us some comfort. Also just having that time to have a wonder around and get used to a completey new environment.
Saturday, February 23, 2008
In Cuba Writing About Our Trip Over
Well, we´ve finally got access to the internet and we´re already 7 or so days into our tour but you get that when you´re on Cuban time.
Flight over was long and uneventful (sometimes you wish something interesting would happen). Nic seemed to manage more sleep than me so I was most tired of the two of us.
We landed in LA in the morning and were staying overnight so we dropped our bags at the hotel and went to have a look around. First stop Santa Monica.
Our taxi acted as a bit of a tour guide as we wound our way through the typical LA traffic. Went past EA for all you geeks reading this, didn´t have any time to leave anything on the doorstep! Didn´t spend much time at the pier but did have a look around the 3rd st area (thanks taxi driver). After much mucking about we finally figured out the transport to the blvd and made our way there and had a looksie (chinese theatre, stars on the pavement).
Went back to Santa Monica to check out the vege place (Good Food Daily) we´d seen earlier to have a oversized meal which was fully vegan (nachos with some yummy sauce, salad and summer rolls). I´d go back to LA just to go there. Everything on the menu is Vegan but a lot of them have "cheese" on the menu, I guess much like the fake meat thing.
Anyway, back to hotel for an excellent nights sleep curtesy of the hilton.
LA seems full of mexicans feeding, clothing and tidying up after the everyday americans who think that sort of work is beneath them (broad generalisation). Pulling out my phrasebook would have helped on a number of occasions.
We flew to Havana via Cancun (where I got a burrito from Jesus!) and lots of waiting in airports.
When we got to Havana it was late at night and we were very ready to get to the hotel and sleep. Taxi ride was a little frightening as we didn´t really know what to expect and at night it seems a bit of a foreboding place. We were both wondering what we´d gotten into.
I´ve leave it at that for now I´m sure Nic is keen to get back to our casa in trinidad. I´ll write up the rest of our notes in the next few days, I´ll have trouble uploading photos until we get to Mexico so I´ll update these posts with a few pics when I can.
Flight over was long and uneventful (sometimes you wish something interesting would happen). Nic seemed to manage more sleep than me so I was most tired of the two of us.
We landed in LA in the morning and were staying overnight so we dropped our bags at the hotel and went to have a look around. First stop Santa Monica.
Our taxi acted as a bit of a tour guide as we wound our way through the typical LA traffic. Went past EA for all you geeks reading this, didn´t have any time to leave anything on the doorstep! Didn´t spend much time at the pier but did have a look around the 3rd st area (thanks taxi driver). After much mucking about we finally figured out the transport to the blvd and made our way there and had a looksie (chinese theatre, stars on the pavement).
Went back to Santa Monica to check out the vege place (Good Food Daily) we´d seen earlier to have a oversized meal which was fully vegan (nachos with some yummy sauce, salad and summer rolls). I´d go back to LA just to go there. Everything on the menu is Vegan but a lot of them have "cheese" on the menu, I guess much like the fake meat thing.
Anyway, back to hotel for an excellent nights sleep curtesy of the hilton.
LA seems full of mexicans feeding, clothing and tidying up after the everyday americans who think that sort of work is beneath them (broad generalisation). Pulling out my phrasebook would have helped on a number of occasions.
We flew to Havana via Cancun (where I got a burrito from Jesus!) and lots of waiting in airports.
When we got to Havana it was late at night and we were very ready to get to the hotel and sleep. Taxi ride was a little frightening as we didn´t really know what to expect and at night it seems a bit of a foreboding place. We were both wondering what we´d gotten into.
I´ve leave it at that for now I´m sure Nic is keen to get back to our casa in trinidad. I´ll write up the rest of our notes in the next few days, I´ll have trouble uploading photos until we get to Mexico so I´ll update these posts with a few pics when I can.
Sunday, February 10, 2008
5 Days To Go
Only 5 days to go until we depart for Cuba y Mexico. We'll be flying to LA, staying overnight then flying to Cuba via Mexico (due to the US -> Cuba embargo). We've got a 14 day tour booked for Cuba then 3 extra nights in Havana to finish off the Cuba side of the trip.
For the Mexican portion of the trip we'll be heading to Playa del Carmen for 5 days and then the island of Cozumel for 3 days most of which will be snorkeling around the coral reef there. Then we're heading to Merida and then Cancun before heading to San Francisco on our way home.
Of particular interest while we're in Cuba is the beginning of the new parliament on February 24th, the first order of business will be to elect the Council of State and El Presidente, which may not be Fidel but his brother Raul who has been acting president for the last 18 months. If this does happen then it will mark the end of Fidel's 50 years in the role and be a historic moment in Cuba's history. Looking forward to being there as the events unfold.
Counting down.
For the Mexican portion of the trip we'll be heading to Playa del Carmen for 5 days and then the island of Cozumel for 3 days most of which will be snorkeling around the coral reef there. Then we're heading to Merida and then Cancun before heading to San Francisco on our way home.
Of particular interest while we're in Cuba is the beginning of the new parliament on February 24th, the first order of business will be to elect the Council of State and El Presidente, which may not be Fidel but his brother Raul who has been acting president for the last 18 months. If this does happen then it will mark the end of Fidel's 50 years in the role and be a historic moment in Cuba's history. Looking forward to being there as the events unfold.
Counting down.
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